Sunday Lunch

Eating at the re-opened Clwyd Gate is a bit like dining at the Picture House except, at Clwyd Gate, you get to see what you’re eating (it's a whole lot lighter).

The Clwyd Gate opened on Thursday. We joined a reasonable-ish number of nosy people to sample lunch. I must say I was as impressed with Clwyd Gate as I was when the Picture House hit the streets. With beiges, browns, creams and blacks, the Clwyd Gate décor was very much Picture House, including the dark tables and the arty cutlery. The bar area tended to be darker sill, blacker with some grey trim on some seats.

Prices from the general menu weren't out of scope, were in line with much Rhuthun/Ruthin has to offer, though seemed much pricier than when I last visited—accounting, of course, for inflation. There are à la carte and lunchtime bar menus. It seemed that the à la carte was again a clone of the sort of meals you could get at the Picture House, at least in style and presentation. This was definitely not the case when last I dined at Clwyd Gate, where chicken in the basket appeared as the speciality. How tastes change.

The eager manager was suited and booted. There appeared to be a preponderance of smart, helpful and attentive staff seemingly tripping over themselves to help. I'm guessing that it seemed a good source of employment for older Ysgol Brynhyfrd students. The food was served promptly. I had no complaints whatsoever regarding my choice, though the well presented pudding still bore the hallmarks of refrigeration.

The refit and refurb has created a far better eating & dining environment within (and without)and has seen off the 1970s/1980s feel to the place, with its staid furnishings and carpets. The full-length windows along the flat roofed frontage shot through with damp are now replaced by standard length units but this does not hamper the view.

That view's changed little over the century or so since the Clwyd Gate was built although since the last time it was open, there are now wind turbines on the horizon. Not that we could see them. The Vale was clearer than of late owing to some rain but there was low cloud over the far distant tops. Take my word that there are usually 29 turbines on view. And snow on Y Berwyn, also obscured by low cloud.

I am not sure what the proprietors will feel about dirty cyclists and especially muddy-booted walkers coming in to spoil the carefully planned interior. Offa's Dyke is, of course, a stone's throw away. Outdoor types can always sit outside—weather permitting—on the 120-foot length of terracing as, indeed, they often tended to do. They would need to go inside at some point, if only to order or use a lavatory.

The contemporary lavatories are also reminiscent of the Picture House's. The wash basins rise gently from the plug to the font edge in a shallow concave way and, rather unfortunately, this causes splash-back, something that looks slightly awkward as you emerge! The other minor irritation is that all the doors seem to bang shut.

And the approach to the Clwyd Gate from Rhuthun is marred by an estate agent's sign that offers no. 6 Highlands for sale. It first glance, I appears that the restaurant is on the market so soon after reopening, as you see this before Clwyd Gate sign itself. Incidentally, no.6 is one of he cottages to the rear of the Clwyd Gate and it’s been on the market for ages.

But don't let these minor matters deter you. There will be few indeed in Rhuthun who claim never to have been in the Clwyd Gate. We all have some collective memory of the place, probably of a slightly down-at-heel sort of venue. That's all changed for the better. Forget what you thought of the place for this will be brushed aside. On a suitably clear day, the views are still superb and most of the dining continues to be along the long frontage, to maximise this unique setting.