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Absolutely Brill on the Hill

It seems that On the Hill can do no wrong. Over the summer, it extends its opening hours to include Tuesdays. And, by 7.30p.m. this very Tuesday evening, the ground and first floors were packed, plus there was a group on the third floor. That full and you barely notice the wah wah wah of the modern music in the background (which can be intrusive till the place fills up).

From the complimentary Cajun tortilla chips with houmous of the day—how many restaurants in Rhuthun/Ruthin offer a houmous *of the day*?—to the main courses and the choices are fresh and exciting.

We wondered whether "The Fish Market" might be a bit of a gamble. This was fried bream, salmon fillet, cod croquette, smoked haddock hot pot with a warming hint of mustard, a hake goujon and absolutely no chips or fries anywhere to be seen. At £18.95, it competed with the duck as the most expensive item on the menu and was decadently expensive by Rhuthun restaurant standards. Taking into account the flavours, the variety and the hard work in building the dish, £19 seemed reasonable.

There was nothing available for vegans amid a reasonable choice of gluten free options.

Puddings were numerous and they cater for those who've over-filled on starters and mains by offering small variants.

If On the Hill can do no wrong, there was but one niggle from our table: no Estrella on draft and five pints of Warsteiner had to go back because they were from the end of the barrel. Alex, almost an early Katherine Tate lookilikey and sound-alike, dealt with this wrinkle efficiently.

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